Day 4 348 kms
For day four we tried to find the track into the Red Lily Lagoon but the map provided at the Information Centre showed it to be in a different location, so, after leaving the sealed road and fording the South Alligator at the old crossing we continued down to old road back to where it joined the highway. As the army now has a large training ground here the road soon became a good gravel road and reasonable speed could be maintained. We made a detour into the Black Springs Reserve which is a small patch of rainforest around a natural spring and would be a nice camping spot if the high grass was cut. Back on the highway we found the start of the track that we were looking for and followed it in. It was in reasonable condition, for the first section as it wound between the trees. On the black soil section the track soon changed to a very bumpy section which we had to crawl over. Eventually we reached the Red Lily Lagoon which was another large but shallow lagoon which would be connected to the South Alligator River when it would be in flood. .
For day four we tried to find the track into the Red Lily Lagoon but the map provided at the Information Centre showed it to be in a different location, so, after leaving the sealed road and fording the South Alligator at the old crossing we continued down to old road back to where it joined the highway. As the army now has a large training ground here the road soon became a good gravel road and reasonable speed could be maintained. We made a detour into the Black Springs Reserve which is a small patch of rainforest around a natural spring and would be a nice camping spot if the high grass was cut. Back on the highway we found the start of the track that we were looking for and followed it in. It was in reasonable condition, for the first section as it wound between the trees. On the black soil section the track soon changed to a very bumpy section which we had to crawl over. Eventually we reached the Red Lily Lagoon which was another large but shallow lagoon which would be connected to the South Alligator River when it would be in flood. .
Below Red Lily Lagoon
Again there was extensive bird life here enjoying the food to be found in the shallow waters. Leaving here we continued on to the next lagoon which was a lot deeper and had quite high banks. In a couple of places there were boat ramps where small boats could be launched. There was on other car here, a family from Holland who had only arrived in Darwin a few days ago and they were enjoying the remoteness of the location, something they could never find in Holland. They were camping here for the night as it was a good camping place with shade and not as open as around the other lagoon. Leaving here there was a sharp and muddy crossing of the creek flowing into the lagoon and it required a scramble up the other side but I could not talk any of the photographers out to wade across for a photo shoot. Below Alligator Billabong.
There was some wild life around here, kangaroos and a wild pig was rooting for tubers around one lagoon. For most of the way we were close to the South Alligator or its lagoons and there was plenty of bird life in the lagoons. We rejoined the old highway at the crossing so it was just a short wade through the water then after a few kilometres we were back on the sealed road and headed back to camp.
Again there was extensive bird life here enjoying the food to be found in the shallow waters. Leaving here we continued on to the next lagoon which was a lot deeper and had quite high banks. In a couple of places there were boat ramps where small boats could be launched. There was on other car here, a family from Holland who had only arrived in Darwin a few days ago and they were enjoying the remoteness of the location, something they could never find in Holland. They were camping here for the night as it was a good camping place with shade and not as open as around the other lagoon. Leaving here there was a sharp and muddy crossing of the creek flowing into the lagoon and it required a scramble up the other side but I could not talk any of the photographers out to wade across for a photo shoot. Below Alligator Billabong.
There was some wild life around here, kangaroos and a wild pig was rooting for tubers around one lagoon. For most of the way we were close to the South Alligator or its lagoons and there was plenty of bird life in the lagoons. We rejoined the old highway at the crossing so it was just a short wade through the water then after a few kilometres we were back on the sealed road and headed back to camp.
Day 5 394 kms
For day five we followed the Kakadu Highway down to Pine Creek but made a short detour into Barramundi Gorge. The camping area is a short distance away from the gorge itself which is part of the Arnhem Escarpment which is around 100 metres high. From here we also visited Gunlom falls which are also called Waterfall Creek. Originally they were known as UDP Falls from the Uranium Development and Prospecting Company but that name was not politically correct for many. Throughout this area there were many small uranium mines dating from the late 1950s to the 1960s when there was a large uranium rush on as at that time the mineral was very scarce. The nearby mine of El Sharana during the 1960s mined the largest single piece of pitchblende in the world. Behind the mine is a aboriginal burial cave which I visited during 1973 and then the track in was very rough and eroded but the cave had many rock paintings and several piles of ochred human bones so it must have been an important cave in the aborigines ceremonies. However none have lived in this area for over 40 years and this area is now closed off. The mine buildings are still standing even though it closed down over 30 years ago but it did crush some of the ore from other smaller nearby mines,
There was very little water flowing over the falls though the pool at the bottom is a popular swimming hole and some of the scenes from Crocodile Dundee were shot here. It is a popular spot though the camping facilities are limited.
The Kakadu Highway was then followed back to Pine Creek which was an important mining centre on 3 separate occasions, during the 1880 to 1900s when there were many small mines scattered through the region, during the 1950 and 60s when there was an uranium rush then from 1990 to the present time large scale open cut gold mining. Of all the settlements in this area this is the only one to still surviving probably because of the railway line and it is on the highway. The old railway station and steam locomotive are on display and occasionally it is still fired up and makes some short runs on the little bit of track that is still left. There were plenty of caravans of interstate tourists all heading north to Darwin, parked in the main street.
Our stop that night was Katherine a further 90 km down the highway. The Katherine River is crossed before entering the town. Katherine is an important stop for tourists as the only other highway to Western Australia leaves here and the Katherine Gorge is always a popular stop.
Day 6 479 kms
By 9 AM the next morning , (a Sunday),we were up and obtaining supplies for the next stage. While there were very few people around walking on the footpaths there was a steady stream of trucks and caravans passing down the main street.
From here we drove to Mataranka which is noted for its hot springs and nearby is the Elsey Cemetery made famous by Aeness Gunn and her story of We of the Never Never. From Mataranka we turned east and drove along the Roper Highway. Not much traffic uses this road as we only met one group of four wheel drives who were in a Tag A-long Tour and two other vehicles. For most of the way it is a single lane sealed road and the surrounding countryside slowly changed from the savannah scenery to the slightly more tropical vegetation the nearer we got to the coast.
For day five we followed the Kakadu Highway down to Pine Creek but made a short detour into Barramundi Gorge. The camping area is a short distance away from the gorge itself which is part of the Arnhem Escarpment which is around 100 metres high. From here we also visited Gunlom falls which are also called Waterfall Creek. Originally they were known as UDP Falls from the Uranium Development and Prospecting Company but that name was not politically correct for many. Throughout this area there were many small uranium mines dating from the late 1950s to the 1960s when there was a large uranium rush on as at that time the mineral was very scarce. The nearby mine of El Sharana during the 1960s mined the largest single piece of pitchblende in the world. Behind the mine is a aboriginal burial cave which I visited during 1973 and then the track in was very rough and eroded but the cave had many rock paintings and several piles of ochred human bones so it must have been an important cave in the aborigines ceremonies. However none have lived in this area for over 40 years and this area is now closed off. The mine buildings are still standing even though it closed down over 30 years ago but it did crush some of the ore from other smaller nearby mines,
There was very little water flowing over the falls though the pool at the bottom is a popular swimming hole and some of the scenes from Crocodile Dundee were shot here. It is a popular spot though the camping facilities are limited.
The Kakadu Highway was then followed back to Pine Creek which was an important mining centre on 3 separate occasions, during the 1880 to 1900s when there were many small mines scattered through the region, during the 1950 and 60s when there was an uranium rush then from 1990 to the present time large scale open cut gold mining. Of all the settlements in this area this is the only one to still surviving probably because of the railway line and it is on the highway. The old railway station and steam locomotive are on display and occasionally it is still fired up and makes some short runs on the little bit of track that is still left. There were plenty of caravans of interstate tourists all heading north to Darwin, parked in the main street.
Our stop that night was Katherine a further 90 km down the highway. The Katherine River is crossed before entering the town. Katherine is an important stop for tourists as the only other highway to Western Australia leaves here and the Katherine Gorge is always a popular stop.
Day 6 479 kms
By 9 AM the next morning , (a Sunday),we were up and obtaining supplies for the next stage. While there were very few people around walking on the footpaths there was a steady stream of trucks and caravans passing down the main street.
From here we drove to Mataranka which is noted for its hot springs and nearby is the Elsey Cemetery made famous by Aeness Gunn and her story of We of the Never Never. From Mataranka we turned east and drove along the Roper Highway. Not much traffic uses this road as we only met one group of four wheel drives who were in a Tag A-long Tour and two other vehicles. For most of the way it is a single lane sealed road and the surrounding countryside slowly changed from the savannah scenery to the slightly more tropical vegetation the nearer we got to the coast.
Below Roper river below the Bar
Roper Bar has a long history and it was named after the rock bar across the Roper River which separated the salt water from the fresh water and when the Overland Telegraph line was being built from Adelaide to Darwin across unexplored country, Port Roper nearer the mouth of the river was an important port for the larger vessels for a while but the smaller coastal vessels would sail up to the Bar where there was a small settlement and a police station. The police here had a very large beat to patrol and later with the large cattle drives coming from New South Wales across to Western Australia, they were the only representatives of the law in a large area and Roper Bar developed a reputation as a wild outback outpost.
Below Crossing the Roper River Bar on the Causeway.
While the settlement was always small, it did serve a large area and later it was the main Welfare settlement for the aborigines. Now most of the government people have left, the police station is now deserted and only a school, medical clinic and a store to serve the people remain. During the Dry season it is a popular fishing spot but one needs to be self contained for a few days. We took on fuel here then after taking some photographs of the crossing and the river; we then followed the only road out of the settlement, the Nathan River Road.
There was only one cattle station in this area and it closed any years ago, only the remains of the old homestead are standing near the road. We did not meet any traffic here until late the following day though there is a fishing camp on the Limmen Bight River nearer the coast, but it is “bring everything you need”. The Limmen Bight River was named by the Dutchman Abel Tasman on his exploration of this area but the Dutch never came ashore and did any exploration.
Roper Bar has a long history and it was named after the rock bar across the Roper River which separated the salt water from the fresh water and when the Overland Telegraph line was being built from Adelaide to Darwin across unexplored country, Port Roper nearer the mouth of the river was an important port for the larger vessels for a while but the smaller coastal vessels would sail up to the Bar where there was a small settlement and a police station. The police here had a very large beat to patrol and later with the large cattle drives coming from New South Wales across to Western Australia, they were the only representatives of the law in a large area and Roper Bar developed a reputation as a wild outback outpost.
Below Crossing the Roper River Bar on the Causeway.
While the settlement was always small, it did serve a large area and later it was the main Welfare settlement for the aborigines. Now most of the government people have left, the police station is now deserted and only a school, medical clinic and a store to serve the people remain. During the Dry season it is a popular fishing spot but one needs to be self contained for a few days. We took on fuel here then after taking some photographs of the crossing and the river; we then followed the only road out of the settlement, the Nathan River Road.There was only one cattle station in this area and it closed any years ago, only the remains of the old homestead are standing near the road. We did not meet any traffic here until late the following day though there is a fishing camp on the Limmen Bight River nearer the coast, but it is “bring everything you need”. The Limmen Bight River was named by the Dutchman Abel Tasman on his exploration of this area but the Dutch never came ashore and did any exploration.
Below. Approaching the causeway across the Limmen Bight.
There were a few river crossings on the road though by now the water level was low and at some of the crossings there were small areas where one could camp overnight. However due to the large number of crocodiles here, it is not safe to camp near the water’s edge. Just after the Limmen Bight River, which was crossed on a causeway at one end of a large billabong, there was a camp site set up by Parks and Wildlife complete with a brand new compositing toilet. As it was now dusk we pitched the tent here although it had recently been burnt out and the ground was a very sandy soil.
There were a few river crossings on the road though by now the water level was low and at some of the crossings there were small areas where one could camp overnight. However due to the large number of crocodiles here, it is not safe to camp near the water’s edge. Just after the Limmen Bight River, which was crossed on a causeway at one end of a large billabong, there was a camp site set up by Parks and Wildlife complete with a brand new compositing toilet. As it was now dusk we pitched the tent here although it had recently been burnt out and the ground was a very sandy soil. 
2 comments:
what....!!??, piles of human bones..i would have scream & run away fast fast....
u didn't managed to dig some gold at Pine Creek, haha?
i saw yr LandR crossing d river again....made me wonder how u captured d photo while u were supposingly & obviously driving...????????????????????????
I was driving but one daughter gets sent across the river to take a photo. However I took pity on her on the deep crossings and drove across first, dropped her then returned!!
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